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Wednesday, April 30, 2008
  Latte art


Latte art is a pet peeve for me really. I can pour with the best of them, and really, anyone can with enough time and repetition. Latte art isn't that hard and contrary to Jon's comment in the video, you don't need particularly good or well executed espresso. In fact, you can have some pretty average milk and still pull off a decent rosetta.

As someone who is very passionate about the cup taste, it is a frustration that latte art often becomes the focus of many the barista and customer. I know that within a single training session, most people can pour latte art but it will take close to a thousand pulls to really build a feel for good espresso. Sure, triple rosettas, pac man breathing fire, it's all novel at first but after a while, it isn't as rewarding as a straight shot drinker showing appreciation over the cup flavor.

I taught myself how to pour latte art with a mostly trial and error approach. I had never seen it except in some Schomer print article. I had not found the forums or the online community obsessed with latte art and the (new at the time) bottomless portafilter until later. The comments from customers were warm and reassuring, sometimes humorous. 'Did you see this?' being curious and 'I thought he only poured those for me but he pours them for everyone' being my favorite.

After a bit of time, customers became accommodated to the art and you could pour five in a cup and nobody would bat an eye. In fact, I would get taken aback when someone actually mentioned the latte art.

It is in this that I believe latte art has it's limits. It's the bare minimum, in my opinion because it is a visual aspect not essential to cup flavor. I rue the shops that post latte art on the walls because it is almost a statement of evolution and that the customer base has not moved beyond that point. When everyone in shop is pouring art everyday, you don't need photos to make the point. Maybe I am thinking too deeply.

Of the few shops here in Cambridge that have a barista or two pouring latte art, maybe two actually have sharp (or even ever changed the) blades on the grinders and use a proper dosing technique with a real tamper that actually fits the basket. So as I simultaneously condemn latte art I also realize it is rarer than it should be.
Latte Art
By the way, if anyone wants a latte art class, let me know ;-)

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Comments:
I've had some awesome looking lattes that tasted like milk with a hint of coffee, just as I've had some really sour espresso that looked damn near perfect. I'd rather the drink be served at 145F with the correct texture, balance of flavor, etc.

Latte art isn't a pet peeve really for me until the barista/shop touts it as the ultimate indicator of cup quality. When the focus is on appearance over substance, the real quality is going to fall off.

I guess it's also a pet peeve when I'm working next to one of my employees and a customer points out that my drinks are "better" than the employees. I know the employee is making really great tasting drinks, and the latte art is just a nice bow on top. Their latte art may not be as good as mine, but I know the drinks are spot on. It annoys me when this happens because they're judging it before they try it.

And for something completely random, I pour latte art every day for a lady that gets a decaf sugar free vanilla skim extra hot latte with a sweet and low in it... it's 20oz. She thinks it's beautiful... does it taste good? She likes it.
 
Dr. Illy once told me that properly textured milk carries the espresso flavor in a very different way than improperly steamed milk. The latter will not make latte art, despite what you say. It seems to me, as a consumer not a barista, that a rosetta is visual evidence that the milk is the right texture. It tells me nothing about whether the espresso is still hot (I've had a few lukewarm macchiattos lately, and that is a problem). Obviously the shot is primary, but in this case I think appearance and quality do have a relationship.
 
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