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Friday, June 08, 2007
Boston eXpresso
I have been thinking recently about how you don't see espresso that are meant to be enjoyed simply as espresso. A straight shot. Maybe a machiatto and maybe a traditional cappuccino.
You have a lot of either dark roasted or very earthy espresso that are designed to cut through milk leaving a less than desirable taste as a straight shot in most areas of the US.
Sure it's one of those things where business owners have to look at where the money is(big milk drinks), but I have always wondered about that. Seriously, the espresso out there is really quite wretched in most shops. Short of a complete revolution, how does that change?
I live in Cambridge and there are a handful of barista who can pour latte art at different shops. I can name on one hand the number of people who pull me consistently good shots, it's that small. Sure there is some latte art and fascination with the patterns, but truth is there are few really good shots to be had in this town.
This is where it gets weird though, at most every shop here in town you will get an espresso that brims over the top of the demitasse. It's not like these are small demis either, it's like trying to chug three and a half ounces of thin tasteless bilge water.
We call this the all too common Boston eXpresso.
I'm not sure this is an accident either. I typically hear:
A) It's to give you your money's worth by giving more volume(sure you get more volume but it tastes bad, so why bother) B) They think more volume will cut through the milk (a misconception as it simply doesn't) C) They were taught this by the roaster or were not trained at all by he roaster.
The part that bothers me it that it seems they are taught this way or are sold the coffee on some big up sell and then left to fend for themselves. It wouldn't be worth mention but there are some big time so called '3rd wave' roasters behind many of these local accounts that are paying top dollar to sell these coffees. Yet, I do not blame the cafes, I inclined to blame the roaster or companies who over hype their green quality, unrealistically romanticize the farmer, or simply talk about quality as if they are the absolute definition of the term. There are so many expectations that come with quality that I would think training should surely be one of them.
Then again, why pay for a great coffee if it falls flat on the cafe floor?
Really peaks your cynical nature doesn't it?
I have been thinking recently about how you don't see espresso that are meant to be enjoyed simply as espresso. A straight shot. Maybe a machiatto and maybe a traditional cappuccino.
You have a lot of either dark roasted or very earthy espresso that are designed to cut through milk leaving a less than desirable taste as a straight shot in most areas of the US.
Sure it's one of those things where business owners have to look at where the money is(big milk drinks), but I have always wondered about that. Seriously, the espresso out there is really quite wretched in most shops. Short of a complete revolution, how does that change?
I live in Cambridge and there are a handful of barista who can pour latte art at different shops. I can name on one hand the number of people who pull me consistently good shots, it's that small. Sure there is some latte art and fascination with the patterns, but truth is there are few really good shots to be had in this town.
This is where it gets weird though, at most every shop here in town you will get an espresso that brims over the top of the demitasse. It's not like these are small demis either, it's like trying to chug three and a half ounces of thin tasteless bilge water.
We call this the all too common Boston eXpresso.
I'm not sure this is an accident either. I typically hear:
A) It's to give you your money's worth by giving more volume(sure you get more volume but it tastes bad, so why bother) B) They think more volume will cut through the milk (a misconception as it simply doesn't) C) They were taught this by the roaster or were not trained at all by he roaster.
The part that bothers me it that it seems they are taught this way or are sold the coffee on some big up sell and then left to fend for themselves. It wouldn't be worth mention but there are some big time so called '3rd wave' roasters behind many of these local accounts that are paying top dollar to sell these coffees. Yet, I do not blame the cafes, I inclined to blame the roaster or companies who over hype their green quality, unrealistically romanticize the farmer, or simply talk about quality as if they are the absolute definition of the term. There are so many expectations that come with quality that I would think training should surely be one of them.
Then again, why pay for a great coffee if it falls flat on the cafe floor?
Really peaks your cynical nature doesn't it?
Labels: boston, cambridge, espresso
¶ Jaime van Schyndel 1:15 AM
Comments:
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I feel your pain. I feel it so hard. Just know that it's not too much better over here; while the usual doppio doesn't run three ounces, you're lucky if the crema isn't the color of a manila envelope.
I'm actually posting with an ulterior motive - finally started the coffee blog. For now it's just a little of this and a little of that; but without giving too much away, I think I'm about to get in the middle of something big in Northwest coffee. Shall keep you posted, 'natch.
I'm actually posting with an ulterior motive - finally started the coffee blog. For now it's just a little of this and a little of that; but without giving too much away, I think I'm about to get in the middle of something big in Northwest coffee. Shall keep you posted, 'natch.
Indeed, the state of affairs is dismal. With pieces of my pending home user conversion kit still in various cross-country containers, I was left to scour the bleak cityscape for my lost lovable beverage. I muttered brief, futile prayers before entering each shop, and was served, yes, that most horrible scourge of tongues, eXpresso!!! Gyaaaaahhhhh! It was awful, but it should be said that the place with all those liberal women actually pulled a better shot than the place with the vestiges of video-store affiliation. This time.
# posted by 
: 10/6/07 11:15 AM
: 10/6/07 11:15 AM
Purposefully the color of a manilla envelope... because that's 'elegant.' Keep up the blogging, it can lead to some interesting connections.
Want good espresso in Boston? Spend big cash to make it at home or figure out which barista actually know their stuff. For me it's a who's on bar routine but there is no punch line to this joke.
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Want good espresso in Boston? Spend big cash to make it at home or figure out which barista actually know their stuff. For me it's a who's on bar routine but there is no punch line to this joke.
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