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Tuesday, May 29, 2007
  Abid "clever" coffee dripper

Other than vacpot (aka syphon), hand pour is another very popular coffee preparation method in Asia. In fact, it is the preferred method for non-espresso brewing method in Japan.

I've been wanting to try out this method for quite some time as I was told it made a different cup profile than vacpot. However, I never follow thru as I am intimidated by the various methodology and tools it required. I was also told it is a very technique-dependant method and can be quite inconsistent from operator to operator.

I first notice this little coffee gadget from mojocoffee's website. I was intrigued by its simplicity and promised ease of use. It's basically a pour-over cone with a stopper valve - you get the cleanness of the drip cone with full extraction of a french press. Best of all, it is stupid simple to use, very consistent, and takes less than 2 min from brewing to clean-up.

I made a request with my brother who is currently vacationing in Taiwan, and couple weeks later I got the unit delivered to my door.

Upon opening, I was quite impressed with the packaging. The graphic design is very well done (no "AS SEEN ON TV" style packaging here). Coupled with the high quality plastic (medical grade imported from Japan), it really made the unit felt substantial.

The design of the unit is very simple. It is basically a drip cone with a tiny plunger at the bottom of the unit. The plunger is connected to a plastic disk/ring. When the dripper is placed on its legs, the plunger will sealed the drip hole due to the weight of the plastic disk. When placed on top of a cup, the rim will push the disk up, lifting the plunger, and allow coffee to pass thru. The concept is so simple yet it worked so well.


The brewing procedure are as followed:

1. Place paper filter in the cone. If desired, run some hot water thru to "wash" away paper taste.

2. Add coffee to the dripper. I use 32g per a full dripper brew (~ 12oz, ending w/ ~ 8oz of coffee).

3. Add hot water (198~202F, depends on the coffee) to the dripper. Make sure the grinds are well agitated. Stir if necessary.

4. Wait 1 min. Stir to break-up the crust.

5. Place the dripper on top of cup and let it drain. The drip time is roughly 60~90 seconds depending on the grind fineness.


That is it. Clean up involved tossing away the paper filter and rinse the dripper. You get a cup that is aromatic, full flavored, and clean with a total brew time of roughly 2 min.

"Clever" coffee dripper is clever indeed.


- Ben C.

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Comments:
Looks very cool - though correct me if I am wrong, but is it just like a Chemex? Similar dose,grind, brew time and method?
 
The method appears slightly different than Chemex since the user controls the steep time before placing the coffee dripper onto a cup to activate the drip. The Chemex has a slower drip due to the thicker filter but it doesn't block the drip, only drips slower. Unless of course I'm missing something here...

Is there any way to get ahold of one of these contraptions in the U.S.?
 
Ah - I see now, its late here and I wasn't paying attention. I am over in the UK so I guess the chances of me getting one to play with are slim at best til I get some more money into the coffee toys fund!
 
I was curioius to try this technique of steeping before drip and so I used a Melitta pour-over cone and put some electrical tape across the hole on the bottom. My attempt to replicate Ben's process: 32g for an 8oz cup with #4 Melitta with pre-rinsed paper filter steeped for 1min, removed tape, and drip for 1min...

I don't usually like a filter drip brew but this one made for an enjoyable cup. Quick, easy, and inexpensive with a cup quality somewhere between press and vacuum (doesn't taste like a drip brewed coffee). This may just become my back-up method when I'm without my Hario...
 
Branden,

You got it! You have full control of the steep time. Like you said, it's between a vacpot and a press but much easier and faster. This is for when vacpot is not as convenient. It's also better for some coffee - specifically the darker roast stuff.

For $15, you can't beat that! Unfortuantely, there were no US distributor that I am aware of ... YET. Might be able to arrange a group buy if I can get enough interest.
 
Off topic, I read your blog regularly. I find the blue on your site hard on the eyes.After reading your page and going to another site, it takes a few minutes for my poor eyes to settle. Does anyone else have same issue? Thought I like you know. Great info on site. Thanks.
 
I have been toying with a complete site redesign at a later date but have limited time and internet access right now. I have a big project right now which is occupying me but it's on my radar.
 
Branden,

What vacpot do you use? Have you try using my extraction method/parameters?
 
Yeah! Somebody finally took the "magic tea filter" concept and applied to a Melitta drip cone. ;)

I'd buy one.
 
Ben,

Yes, I am currently using your suggested method with my Hario TCA-2 and it works great! I even made a small spreadsheet so that I can record the extraction parameters (grind, temp, time) when experimenting with different coffees.

Before finding a new 2-cup on ebay, I couldn't realistically experiment with my 5-cup stovetop yama because it doesn't allow for the same control and I'd be wasting too much coffee. Now I can tweak the process fully and I have been re-inspired to drink brewed coffee. For awhile I was finding the brewing capability of other methods lacking when it came to coffee and so was leaning toward espresso only. I'm drinking them both equally if not more vacpot these days.

A question I have in regard to the cloth filter: I've been storing the filter in water in the refridgerator and that appears to help with off flavors but have you tried either the cory or cona glass filter rod with a Hario?
 
Branden,

I am very impressed. Great job! I don't think I ever listed my parameter...try these for your "baseline" parameters:

Light roast:

- 2 stirs total. First at drop, 2nd at 10 sec before pull (in most case, @ 50 sec). Adjust total time to increase/decrease extraction.
- 32g per 2 cup
- 25~27 "notch" coarser than espresso grind on a super jolly
- Start at 91C water (90~92C usual range)

Dark roast:

- add an additional stir at 30 sec.
- use 88~90C water
- 28g per 2 cup

When you stir, use a zig-zag pattern. Avoid making a vortex (it will cause fines to migrate to the middle, resulting bitters in the cup). Try to keep the stir time under 5 sec for each stir.

Of course, adjust as necessary (but I am sure you already know that) =)

Very cool to hear someone else playing w/ vacpot as well!
 
Re: cloth filter and glass rod.

Make sure you rinse the cloth with hot water right away after use, and right before use. I even clean it with cafiza when it gets a bit too dark.

As for glass rod, I tried one a while back when I had a hario clone (I think it was made by yama, but not 100% sure now). The glass rod is very sensitive to grind, allowed too much fines to pass thru (end up having same sediment issue as french press), and eventually to crack the neck of that vacpot unit due to a stall.

I think the cloth filter is a big part of what I like about my vacpot setup. It filters the best among all filters (paper, metal, glass) due to the cake filteration quality (much like using a poly filter on the aeropress) while allowing some oil to pass thru. In fact, the vacpot brew has so much body already that I don't find it necessary to get all the oil like in a press. And the lack of fines definately contributed to the overall clarity and complexity of the cup.
 
Ben,

Amazing! Thank you for your baseline parameters. After much experimentation, I had found a baseline differing from yours and now I realize how it was compromising the coffee. When trying to find a brew baseline on my own, I experimented with many grinds and doses and had found a grind of 36 notches from espresso setting on my Mazzer Mini and 20grams of coffee to provide a extraction that did not bitter the coffee. I had been unable to figure out what needed to be changed in order to get a stronger extraction.

I was using 36 notches, 20grams, 91c, 2 stirs (first @ drop and second @ 30 seconds, removing heat at 50 seconds with the pull downward ending at 66 seconds. WIth this baseline I was able to experiment with different coffees but I was also dealing with a considerably weaker brew. For some coffees I feel I was able to detect a great amount at this level but other coffees were left somewhat empty with this baseline of extraction.

Most of my coffee efforts begin with guessing and experimentation. Sometimes it doesn't produce the best results (I've drank a lot of bad cups on this path of coffee enlightenment) but I keep trying. And then sometimes I am able to replicate the process of someone else's experience with successful results. Such success does not negate my insufficient experimentation but instead reinforces the notion that there are countless possibilities.

And speaking of possibility, now that I have a new baseline to practice with, I'm off to go experiment some more!

P.S. The zig-zag stir motion works much better as well. I was stirring in a circular motion before and that was probably an issue I was having with bitterness that I was trying to compensate for.
 
Also, more on topic to the original post. Instead of electrical tape (which produced a slight leak during steep) for my Melitta 4-cup mod, I tried using the peg from a bicycle chain link. It's quick and easy to use and I'll probably take it with me as a travel brew method when on the road.

Check out a photo to see what I'm refering to: http://www.flickr.com/photos/byersbs/525169438/in/photostream/
 
Branden,

Your grind might be a bit coarse, judging from your no finishing stir but fast pull-down time. However, I have no way of varify that (I don't know if 1 click of SJ = 1 click of mini). I would suggest you try my parameters and grind progressively finer until bitters showed up.

The middle stir (@ 30 sec) will increase the extraction but decrease the aroma. In light roasts, this additional stir is no good because it kills all the delicate nose; but in dark roast, it helped extracting more flavor from the more roasted bean. Quoting from Simon (these instruction came from him, btw), "for me, light/medium roast (in a vacpot) is all about aroma whereas dark roast is about minimizing bitters."

The final stir is important because it breaks up the crust and prevent any stalling/slowing of the pull-down.

Emperical experinece is VERY important. It teach you WHY the prefered method is what it is and allowed you to develop skills in dealing with variations in the coffee. Most likely you will develop your prefered method that is a variation (or totally different) of mine, so all your notes are definately not wasted.

Keep up the great work and take good notes!
 
I just reexamined my previous post and realized I thanked you for sharing your parameters but didn't necessarily make it clear that I had already tried your method. I now believe that the Super Jolly and Mini must have similiar adjustment settings because I tried it at 26notches from espresso with your specific stirring technique and it worked great for a light roasted Kenya! Thanks again!
 
I'm in for a group buy of these.
 
I am working on some possibilities...
 
Ben:

What fineness do you prefer for your cloth filter? I have a Hario 5111 (hourglass receptor with handled cloth filter) and have always prefered slighter coarser than espresso grind...otherwise it runs through too quickly. But I'd be curious for some example parameters from you.
 
Aaron,

I do not have any experience with that hand-pour unit, but here are the driections that was written on one of my coffee book:

- Medium grind, which is also what the author recommands for the drip cone. So I imagine it will be the same as the grind I use for vacpot.

- 18g for "2 cup".

- 90C water.

- 300 ml extracted liquid.

1. Put coffee in the cloth filter. Shake lightly until the coffee is leveled, then make a divit/"hole" in the middle of the ground with the back of a spoon. This is to "contained" the hotwater so it pours thru but not disturb the coffee (water do not go sideways).

2. 1st pour. Pour hot water with a hand-pout pot, close to the divit. Slowly pour the water as if you are "placing" the water on top of the grind. Avoid creating any vortex. Stop the pour when the divit is filled. Do not pour over the "wall" you formed with the coffee (so the edge is still "dry")

3. Let the coffee steam/saturate the grind. A mound should be formed in the center of the coffee. Make sure it's not shifted too much to the sides. "Steam" time is 20 to 30 seconds.

4. 2nd pour - start from center and with a clock-wise spiral, slowly pour the water in a small but steady stream outward to "re-saturate" the mound formed earlier. Do not pour to the edge of the coffee, especially where it meets the cloth filter.

5. 3rd pour - same as 2nd pour. You will see small bubbles stars to form on the surface. Large bubble s indicated water temp is too high and too few bubbles mean the temperature is too low (or coffee not fresh enough).


Care the cloth filter as you would w/ a vaccpot filter - that is, rinse with hot water before and after each use, and store in cold water (preferably in the frig). Do not dry the filter as the residual oil will oxidize (and start to stink).

I will scan you the photo of the pour so you can have better idea of what I am talking about, but I won't post it as it's copy-righted material.

Here's an example of a hand-pour pot:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/xamous/49123466/
 
Btw, hand-pour is one of the most intricate coffee brewing method used in Japan/Taiwan. The technique I listed is but one of the MANY that is out there. There are many "schools" of doing it and the result is very operator depandant. Like I said, I was very curious about the method but choose not to get into it due to the complxity and potential inconsistency... looks like a lot of fun (and frustration) though...
 
Ben: For the Hario pour over, I see that divet pic you sent me and I have to say I have never thought to try that. In fact, my general practice is to build a slight mound in the center, rather than flat or diveted and pour from the outside in. I actually follow the basic parameters you gave, sans the divet, leaving a tiny tip of the mound until maybe 60% of the water has run through; then I pour over the tip and let it run dry. The thinking with that is that you don't want 100% brewed the same way. Just as varied grind sizes are proving to give greater cups I think if there are varying degrees of grounds that have been saturated to different percentages you stand to have a more complex cup.

Agitation is usually very light using this method, consisting of a gentle swirl of the entire glass carafe with filter on top, IF I agitate at all.

I'm curious if anyone here might know or feel that my method of "graduated saturation" might be missing something. (No, I've never tried my method side by side with another method for comparison. Shame on me for mentioning it here without doing due diligence!)
 
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