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Wednesday, February 21, 2007
  Freezing Green For "Vintage" Coffees?


Wine is a beautiful thing. It is one of the products in this world in which the grower can create a bottle of wine and enjoy it year after year and watch it grow, mature, and change with time.

Coffee is not wine in that regard. Coffee is much more like produce in that it is a perishable product meant to be consumed with as little interference from the deteriorating effects of heat, moisture, and most importantly time. Freezing cannot increase the flavor of the coffee over time but makes it possible to keep coffee fresh until it is roasted.

I am all for freezing green to keep it fresh, but are so called “vintage" coffees a good idea? You could approach coffee like wine and vintage it. You could even save it for your kids to try, but why do this now when we have so much to look forward to?

At this point in time, our industry is still in its infancy. Since freezing obviously cannot increase the flavor of the coffee over time, why hoard it? One of the greatest things about this time in coffee is that we are at a point where we have everything to look forward to. If we want the coffee industry to continue to progress in the direction of product quality, what use is there in freezing coffee to be used several years from now? I see only detrimental effects to the industry from this. Every successful business has return customers. How can farmers be expected to create a consistently good coffee if they cannot rely on return customers? How can a farmer expect a return customer if the company buying it just freezes it to be sold when the company chooses and does not continue to buy that coffee year after year? If we want to continue to see consistently good washed coffees year after year, we must retain the seasonality of the coffee business and give farmers a chance to perfect their craft so that it is more repeatable. Especially at this time when so much growth is happening, this is important.

Vintage coffees also create false demand. If a roaster chooses to freeze a coffee for years to come, it creates the demand for consumers to buy that coffee when the roaster chooses to roast it, not when the coffee is still in season.

Everyone has favorite coffees that they want to continue to have again and again, but “vintaging” coffees means that at such a pivotal point in time as is now, farms that produce consistently good washed coffees will remain few in number.

It would be great to fill a vault with all the best coffees you have ever had. To take the best from each origin and make an all-star cupping table would be great. On the other hand, each year the coffees that come to the CoE cupping tables get better and better. Each year I taste coffee, I continue to taste new coffees that amaze me.

Not only would “vintage” coffees put another question mark in how the farmer will consistently be able to sell his coffee, but it will also cost much more for consumers. Freezing coffee costs a lot of money and why would the consumer want to pay for that cost if the coffee can be used faster and ultimately take less money to freeze ? I am willing to take the chance that next years coffee might not be as good, in order to assure that the next 10 years of coffee are.

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Comments:
I think hoarding some green makes sense in the future, I just don't know where it has a place right now.

You can be sure, at home I am gonna seal up anything I have green, simply because we can't roast it fast enough so we preserve it. Same idea if I was a small roaster buying a bigger lot than I could roast in a month or two, I guess.

I think there is a market for vintage coffee down the road but I don't know if enough marquee coffees are on the market or enough demand exists to make sense of it. heck, a lot of people aren't sold on freezing yet.

I've only run across maybe two coffees I would like to see hoarded but then again, my memory probably casts them in a more romantic light than they actually are.
 
perhaps part of why we're in our infancy in specialty coffee is because no one's figured out the freeze-for-vintage thing yet.
 
for sure, freezing for vintage doesn't make much sense right now when a)there aren't a ton of vintage worthy coffees out there and b)there are some perceived economic disadvantages/disincentives to continue farming for excellence. but i would argue that that only underscores the need to start now, when the stakes (i.e., the level of coffee greatness and knowledge) is relatively low. make the mistakes now. learn the process. improve the overall game of freezing. find out what IS the lowest cost methodologies for such storage (people always have ultra-creative solutions in scenarios such as these), and basically blaze the trail now.

if you turn around and no one is behind you, you're probably not a leader. however, if you turn around and people are following what you're out there doing...

someone's got to step out and take the lead.
 
freezing vintages is something untill last week I was not in support of. Untill a cafe customer of mine aked if it would be possible to do something. He also serves wine and with wine you can easily make comparisons of the same wine side by side with the same wine of other vintages. If freezing can really virtually stall the fading process of coffee it would allow doing comparitive tastings across multiple vintages. being able to taste differences in weather patterns, changes in processing, sorting and skill of the farmer. The ability to say this coffee is improving every year or this vintage was truly special. I may have to freeze 2 or 3 lots of coffees from consistent producers to compare in the future.

R. Miguel Meza
Paradise Roasters
 
I was initially completely in favor of vintage greens. The only real argument to make against vintage greens is simply an ethical one. I have done some great and extremely informative comparative tastings with frozen vintage greens in the past, which lead me to realize that freezing in fact really does preserve greens. I should have clarified my argument to say that I don’t really see the benefits of freezing greens for commercial purposes at this point in time. Honestly, it is a hard argument to make because there are some really great benefits of vintage greens. I think that it really just depends on what you are trying to accomplish by vintaging (not really a word, I know) greens and I see a lot of Jamaica Blue Mountain type scenarios. Still, Aaron and Miguel, you guys clearly see (and show me) some of the benefits and what sound like good ways to execute them. Great point about the weather patterns Miguel!
 
Aaron,

I picked up this nasty habit of devil's advocate from a buddy of mine...

Comparative cuppng is basicaly what started the first person to begin freezing. To see how the crop was aging compared to frozen samples and then to compare it to the next crop.

What we were discussing when looking at this debate was the freezing of Injerto for vintage. Two companies did it and it seemed to be a bit like restricting supply to create a false demand.

Freezing presents a new frontier that we haven't addressed yet so we should all keep having this discussion from both sides of the aisle.
 
nothing is ever economically/commercially feasible when it's first being tested. remember the $500 cd player?
it's when enough knowledge has been amassed and enough people are doing it and demanding it that an economy of scale is brought to bear.

i'm simply advocating pushing the circle of knowledge out just a bit in this one tiny area...see where it takes us.

maybe that's vintage. maybe it's wine like markets. maybe it's nothing. the research will tell us.

creating markets is not evil, though, jaime. disney, for example, does that all the time with their remastering the old classics "for a limited time only." (yes, i have kids.)

those two companies may be disingenuous or manipulative, but it's not "false" if there is real customer demand for it.

that's why every grocery in the country still carries tomatoes, strawberries, etc., all year. there is demand.

the difference is these two companies you're referencing, jaime, have (ostensibly) tapped into a way to have super fresh tomatoes all year with very little to no cup quality compromise.

where's the downside? silas, i fail to see the ethics/non-ethics behind it. customers win. vendors win. farmers win, too, because it won't be long before smart farmers see what the roasters are doing (vintaging) and will charge commensurate premiums for vintageable greens.

and the circle of knowledge will continue to expand.

great perspectives, everyone. sorry for sermonizing. just keeping the conversation lively.
 
With vintage we are not talking about preserving the crop, we are talking about holding it back for special roasts on limited occassions over a few years.

I want to see coffee like high end tea where the farmer is a brand and they have great power over the product. Freezing for me is a means to preserve the crop throught the entire selling season keeping quality in the crop throughout the time it is offered.

Restricting the supply is not evil but it is largely the same as JMB and Kona, it has little to do with cup quality. People will pay great amounts for it but I fail to see great margins from it for anyone but the roaster. Nothing wrong with that but I worry that vintage will be a step in removing the relationship from coffee. A situation where buyers stock up on one great crop then hold off until they find another great crop possibly skipping a year or two in that search. Farmers need consistent paydays to increase consistency in production but maybe I am looking at this from an odd angle.

For me, coffee is about the next great cup not the last great one, always will be so you can understand my bias.

You know I am chuckling a bit that I am on this end of the argument and you and Miguel are on the other. That's an amazing move.
 
i'm chuckling too, at us both playing the devil's advocate for the other's not solidified feelings.

i completely reject the premise that restricting the supply by freezing would approach anything so heinous as the jbm or kona phenomena. those are low-grown, soft coffees that are purely market driven. jbm is only expensive because the japanese bought it all so many years ago, severely restricting its supply to the rest of the world. people figured it HAD to be good. up the price went.

kona is expensive (as is puerto rico yauco selecto) because of one thing: u.s. minimum wage.

we're talking about holding back superior coffees here. no one wants to reserve (by freezing or otherwise) a mediocre coffee. the whole reason to hold it back is because it is so special it deserves to be celebrated.

do the great wines of the world that aren't grand cru get dumped down the drain? no. there will always be a market for them, just as there will always be people like me, new to the game and without limitless resources, who are thrilled in the meantime to get their hands on the "seconds" from the great coffee farms of the world. as the number of quality roasters increases, demand will continue to rise and competition will always be fierce. i see smart growers only benefiting from this. you may not buy a coffee from a farm every year. but someone else will, you can rest assured.

i'll invoke our friend edwin here and say, "there's no such thing as bad coffee, only bad matches."
 
If I could interject one thought. we are the 'frozen chosen'
before anyone think we are arguing against anything that could preserve cup quality.

It will be interesting to see the different variations that come from each roaster as this begins.

Note: Before we publish anything we always take the time to do the footwork and research as best we can. This article took several phone calls and emails simply to clarify where Silas wanted to go with it. We are not pros or journalists and we definitely lose money doing this, but we take it more seriously lately because we respect the people who read(some of whom we are amazed and honored that they read) and especialy to those who leave quality commentary or drop us an email/phone call now and then about content.

I think Silas took some guts to get this article together and it was a good thought provoker. Snarky in good way. I have to give him credit for stirring the mud a bit. Otherwise we could get too complacent.
 
this is a frustrating topic.

I'm a big fan of the development of freezing green, but apparently not enough to be doing it myself to any large scale. And that's just my point. If I saw reason to freeze all our coffee I would find a way to do it. But I don't know that I have customers who would pay more for this. I would say it's a horrible idea for a grower to see the value in freezing and decide to do this to ADD value. You can NEVER truly add value to coffee in regards to quality. You can add value in other respects but regards to quality you can only maintain. Even on the tree, just like in a roaster, the optimal point to pick or roast to does not add value... rather anything short of this robs what should have been there. I suppose it will begin to make sense with coffees that unanimously (sp?) get exceptionl unbiased feedback from many CREDIBLE sources. Then like any other crazy experiment, those who want it need to be prepared to bear the cost of implementing it. You need to be fairly big to properly leverage this and I don't see anyone out there that is getting great return on their investment freezing coffee.

About why do freeze today when there is so much to look fwd to tomorrow. As a consumer... good question. As a grower... just for the sake of doing true comparative cupping from 1 crop year to next.

As a coffee geek, just because you can. Norm Kilmon from the Roasterie told me one of his favorite coffees was and Huehue from 1986. He admits it may just be his taste buds deteriorating with age... but what a cool thing to say. The volumes it makes sense to freeze will never negatively effect a grower.

For example today I can't imagine more than a dozen roaster in the U.S. that would consider freezing a pallet... and in this case it would be of something that was a huge hit... and they of course have to know this right after they get it so it can be frozen as a new crop.

Then to slowly release this through out the years will not negatively effect the grower... infact it will further promote... because people will WANT to compare with the new crop... so they'll have to buy and try this as well. The one who did the freezing will most likely feel commited to continue buying such a coffee. If it merits freezing, it probably merits revisiting each year.

I think for the near future there's more reasons that are gimmicky to freeze than legitimate in a commercial sense. Can you imagine if you froze a few bags of a Colombian COE and then because of a 2 year drop in the C market.. the entire region where this coffee came from switches crops to say corn and something illegal....
Now you've got a marketable bag of coffee!

It doesn't taste any better than before... but it's like a luwak, or JBM, but maybe pricier.

Here's a thought. What if we abandoned our plantation, for the next 10 years and just froze this years crop and sold it for 10 times the price.

Another similar topic is the concept of vintage with out freezing. Not all, but many wines do get better with age. I held back a pallet from 2005 and gave it out bag at a time to select customers and asked for honest feedback... we've gotten feedback that the profile had to be changed to get to the end result. however with proper storage the only downside is a baggy (ass (as in burlap) taste. Old crop tends to be less prevalent with a very dense bean. They hold up better. I can't imagine a green aging well, but Brazil is about to release some lots that are 30+ years old! This come from back in the day when ... well long before anyone thought of freezing. Coffee was known to have an infinite shelf life.

Nice thread...
 
To borrow some thoughts from our emails...

The reason to freeze(not vintage) is largely based on a whole series of quality decisions. It is not some blatant eccentricity as many often portray it. Please save your snarky freeze-dried jokes for another audience... ;-)

I just cupped three new coffees the other day from old friends. They were roasted close to my ideals. In fact, they shocked me in a very good way and just completely nailed the roast in the way we dicussed back with Aaron in the comments on his coffee in an earlier post. Anyway, about the coffee...

To be short: The Colombia was >ripe<

The long of it: It was soft and sweet, juicy and balanced. No defects, just full sweetness. Creamy caramel almost to a butterscotch. Rose petal aromas. Just gorgeous and the roast looked so even with that veiny bean and 'the racing stripe'. Not a flaw in the cup. Not on the level of Tolima but it's just a solid coffee. (I think a bag will make it to the ATL and the San Antonio area soon)

Another coffee placed with it was also very nice and better than most coffees I have tasted lately by far... but just as the cup cooled, I got this tiny taste of wheat or the now infamous 'cheerios' descriptor. A bit of age in the green as we have come to believe.

I know they do a bang up job repackaging out of burlap when new coffees arrive... and I am in no way critiquing anything, only using an example. I assure you I would sell (and Simon will sell) those two in a heartbeat given how hard it is to find that style of coffee.

two things.

1. You have to roast a coffee in a manner that you -can- see it's flaws.

2. You have to make the observation that this specific taste is from that specific cause.

These are bigger points than many may think. It is not simply a light roast but that you must make a series of connections about moisture content, flavor descriptors, and a whole other set of logic leaps to get to a point where you deduct 'I want this fresh crop taste at this roast level' and then that subsequently freezing is what will keep me at that freshness and consistency through the entire crop.

Then again vintage 30 year old brazil should taste a lot like it sounds, I would think?
 
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