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Friday, September 29, 2006
There is no standard!
Ppl just DON'T GET IT!!
Ristretto is NOT automatically better than a Normale. In fact, I HATE those two words. The dosage and resulting liquid is much much more meaningful than putting label on drinks. Who cares what you call it... just have good espresso. Each bean/blend has an optimum range of flavor that the roaster wanted to express. It's up to the Barista to choose what he/she wanted to present, from that range of flavor, to the customer. This is what makes this brewing method interesting.
Using a singular apporach is just plain wrong!
So many ppl are polluted by what are presented in the media/online forums to think that ristretto = good. Well, why is that? Because most of the bean/blends are CRAP! They are usually over-roasted to cover up the off-flavor and defects from the junk beans in it. In this case, pulling a "ristretto" helps to make it pallatable because when you up the dose and pull it short, you kill the overwhelming roast flavor (think burnt stench). And because it's a duller coffee (due to the darker roast), flavor gets amplified enough to be notice w/out being over-bearing. The result is a mellow (or dull, depends on your definition) shot that is somewhat muddy (from the roast) but viscous and enjoyable.
But if you take the same approach to a light roast premium bean (such as the SOE Yirg from Terroir), you are going to have some "Terroiry" shots (yes, there is such term being thrown around). The shot will be VERY astringent and flavors will be painfully over-whelming. The beautiful aromatics will be killed and the sweetness will not be able to show thru. Those shots usually resemble stomach bile and have cause me to vomit in the past. But when it's done right, the shot smell and taste like the fresh ground coffee. Aromatic, sweet, fruity, clean-ripe acidity, and enough roast to balance things out.
I am not saying if one style of pull is better than another. I enjoyed both, DEPENDS ON THE COFFEE. But if ppl keep having the idea that ristretto is the only way to go, the roasters will continue to cater to that style (over roasted dull beans). And we might never see the true beauty of the uber premium beans that are becoming more available in the markets. I have tasted a DARK ROAST COE bean marketed as SOE. Let me tell you, it's so dull and burnt that make me weep. And that is why SOE gets all the misunderstanding it recieves simply because the ppl (roaster and consumers) just don't get it.
Do not be satisfy with one way of doing things. The preparation should be a tool to express what is in the bean and not the other way around. And please do not ask for a ristretto shot... just ask for a GOOD shot and trust your barista.
-Ben
¶ Ben Chen 9:43 AM
Ppl just DON'T GET IT!!
Ristretto is NOT automatically better than a Normale. In fact, I HATE those two words. The dosage and resulting liquid is much much more meaningful than putting label on drinks. Who cares what you call it... just have good espresso. Each bean/blend has an optimum range of flavor that the roaster wanted to express. It's up to the Barista to choose what he/she wanted to present, from that range of flavor, to the customer. This is what makes this brewing method interesting.
Using a singular apporach is just plain wrong!
So many ppl are polluted by what are presented in the media/online forums to think that ristretto = good. Well, why is that? Because most of the bean/blends are CRAP! They are usually over-roasted to cover up the off-flavor and defects from the junk beans in it. In this case, pulling a "ristretto" helps to make it pallatable because when you up the dose and pull it short, you kill the overwhelming roast flavor (think burnt stench). And because it's a duller coffee (due to the darker roast), flavor gets amplified enough to be notice w/out being over-bearing. The result is a mellow (or dull, depends on your definition) shot that is somewhat muddy (from the roast) but viscous and enjoyable.
But if you take the same approach to a light roast premium bean (such as the SOE Yirg from Terroir), you are going to have some "Terroiry" shots (yes, there is such term being thrown around). The shot will be VERY astringent and flavors will be painfully over-whelming. The beautiful aromatics will be killed and the sweetness will not be able to show thru. Those shots usually resemble stomach bile and have cause me to vomit in the past. But when it's done right, the shot smell and taste like the fresh ground coffee. Aromatic, sweet, fruity, clean-ripe acidity, and enough roast to balance things out.
I am not saying if one style of pull is better than another. I enjoyed both, DEPENDS ON THE COFFEE. But if ppl keep having the idea that ristretto is the only way to go, the roasters will continue to cater to that style (over roasted dull beans). And we might never see the true beauty of the uber premium beans that are becoming more available in the markets. I have tasted a DARK ROAST COE bean marketed as SOE. Let me tell you, it's so dull and burnt that make me weep. And that is why SOE gets all the misunderstanding it recieves simply because the ppl (roaster and consumers) just don't get it.
Do not be satisfy with one way of doing things. The preparation should be a tool to express what is in the bean and not the other way around. And please do not ask for a ristretto shot... just ask for a GOOD shot and trust your barista.
-Ben
¶ Ben Chen 9:43 AM
Comments:
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I totally argee with you, although I am sure your not surprised. A lot of times I feel like people who drink espresso don't even like it. It is like spicy food, yeah adding spice to food is essential, but adding too much hot (picante is the best way I know to describe it) to food just kills the flavor. I hate when people just want picante food just so they can feel like a man. For some people drinking espresso seems to be the same way. They just want to seem all manly or tough. Basicly, it seems like people have this notion that espresso is supposed to taste bitter and harsh and so they get used to it and develop at taste for it. So when people have these low quality, over roasted beans, pulling a ristreto creates some form of sweetness that they imediatley like because they are used to bad espresso. Haha, just think tobacco...and not the smell of fresh tobacco, but just smoke. Ugghhh.
Silas
Silas
You don't need me to chime in to say, "I agree 110%", but I will anyway.
Jaime, I agree with you 110% on this.
I don't know how people could go through their coffee-lives without ever really tasting the COFFEE itself, revealed through exceptional roasting, and skillful brewing.
Is that not the purpose of both? To highlight the flavors already inherent in the coffee?
/chime
Jaime, I agree with you 110% on this.
I don't know how people could go through their coffee-lives without ever really tasting the COFFEE itself, revealed through exceptional roasting, and skillful brewing.
Is that not the purpose of both? To highlight the flavors already inherent in the coffee?
/chime
I agree with your stance on ristretto vs normale. In fact, if people want to communicate volumes for specific coffees, they should do it in those terms (ml or oz) rather than a blanket word. I don't necessarily mind the reference to ristretto or normale, but I rather dislike when a customer orders a "ristretto" because they believe they know something about coffee or heard the term from someone who does. Those who know coffee know not to do it for reasons we all know. The part about your post I don't understand is the link to the forum.
Matt,
The fact that someone wants to add an "ristretto" category in additional to the existing espresso shots in the barista competition showed such ignorance (toward what "good esrpresso" is). The espresso should alerady be how the barista showcase the coffee (long or short shots)...
The fact that someone wants to add an "ristretto" category in additional to the existing espresso shots in the barista competition showed such ignorance (toward what "good esrpresso" is). The espresso should alerady be how the barista showcase the coffee (long or short shots)...
Sorry ben.. I guess I got used to seeing Jaime ranting along those lines, and just assumed.
I didn't see your "-ben" at the end until just now.
Ben, I agree with you 110% on this.
I didn't see your "-ben" at the end until just now.
Ben, I agree with you 110% on this.
oh, snap! he said terroiry...but isn't it spelled "terroirie" or is that the word fot a cafe where GH XXXpresso is served? i get so confused sometimes.
"always use kiai when tamping"
-Miyamoto Musashi
"always use kiai when tamping"
-Miyamoto Musashi
# posted by 
: 2/10/06 3:26 PM
: 2/10/06 3:26 PM
Musashi was a double tamper... and and better at the stealthy cup than even Mr. Migs!
Little known fact ;)
Little known fact ;)
Since I'm the "ignorant" home enthusiast barista being called ignorant of what good espresso is thought I'd chime in. First thanks for labeling me ignornat while you don't have a clue what I do or do not know. I do have a fair knowledge of coffee from growing, to greens processing methods to various roasting methods to various brewing methods including a short 5 years espresso extraction experience. I've been chasing nothing but fresh roast whole been since 1984 and roasting going on 6 years. Yes, I know what bitter is and agree it has no business in a good shot, be it ristretto WP City+ Yirg which won't be bitter if pulled properly or any other SO or blend. And for the record I never said a ristretto was better than a normale, merely suggested ristretto be could added to competitions as another drink. Which IMO the same blend/bean can often be excellent but different as a normale or ristretto. I also suggested that the same SO be given to each barista to test their skill at finding it's optimal shot. IMO that would push the skill level and coffee knowledge testing far more than only pulling shots of coffees chosen by the barista. But no mention of that in the rant...
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# posted by : 3/10/06 8:08 PM
: 3/10/06 8:08 PM<< Home
