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Monday, September 18, 2006
Espresso and absolutes?
I just finished covering a bit at the shop so Simon could get a emergency dentist appointment. Painful so I sympathize. I caught up a bit and heard some different things going down. A lot of people have been coming in and asking for 'ristretto' lately. Not just straight shots but in everything. A bit annoying. Simon's pulls the Ecco as ristretto and anything else they guest that tastes better as a ristretto.
I think it goes to the NY times article where Ken Nye got some plentiful coverage on ranting about the ristretto in espresso. It reminded me of something GHH said about espresso is only 2oz and that is the only espresso.
I just don't really know if I am alone on this, but I feel like there are not many cut and dry absolutes for espresso. There are variables but there are only a few things in espresso that you could say are true for all beans. Fresh roasted, tamped, clean machine, fresh blades, etc fall into the obvious but what about extractions and beans to use for espresso? I have on occassion pointlessly weighed in and started fights with people on forums who post absolutes(Jim and Jon, right Jason...) for one size fits all home user advice. When somebody says triple updosed is the only way to go or that only certain beans can make good shots, I get a little ruffled. No disrespect to anyone who has an opinion of what they like, but I feel like it is so limiting in an area we understand so little about to declare anything as absolute. We as a passionate coffee culture don't know espresso very well. That much I know is absolute. I am only beginning to understand the magnitude of the research I personally need to do in espresso to better understand it.
The thing is, how many people are just experimenting and playing with temp, volume, and dose to find the sweet spots in each coffee(not commercial blends but individual coffees pre blend or SOE)?
Maybe I am off on my own on this, but I really feel like few of us in the industry are talking about the same things when we talk about espresso. Some of us are hung up on being techies, some like the culture/community, some just like the flavors. It's all a bit muddled.
-Jaime
PS to you know who: Master Barista??? It sounds a bit arrogant and I know you aren't... ¶ Jaime van Schyndel 5:01 PM
I just finished covering a bit at the shop so Simon could get a emergency dentist appointment. Painful so I sympathize. I caught up a bit and heard some different things going down. A lot of people have been coming in and asking for 'ristretto' lately. Not just straight shots but in everything. A bit annoying. Simon's pulls the Ecco as ristretto and anything else they guest that tastes better as a ristretto.
I think it goes to the NY times article where Ken Nye got some plentiful coverage on ranting about the ristretto in espresso. It reminded me of something GHH said about espresso is only 2oz and that is the only espresso.
I just don't really know if I am alone on this, but I feel like there are not many cut and dry absolutes for espresso. There are variables but there are only a few things in espresso that you could say are true for all beans. Fresh roasted, tamped, clean machine, fresh blades, etc fall into the obvious but what about extractions and beans to use for espresso? I have on occassion pointlessly weighed in and started fights with people on forums who post absolutes(Jim and Jon, right Jason...) for one size fits all home user advice. When somebody says triple updosed is the only way to go or that only certain beans can make good shots, I get a little ruffled. No disrespect to anyone who has an opinion of what they like, but I feel like it is so limiting in an area we understand so little about to declare anything as absolute. We as a passionate coffee culture don't know espresso very well. That much I know is absolute. I am only beginning to understand the magnitude of the research I personally need to do in espresso to better understand it.
The thing is, how many people are just experimenting and playing with temp, volume, and dose to find the sweet spots in each coffee(not commercial blends but individual coffees pre blend or SOE)?
Maybe I am off on my own on this, but I really feel like few of us in the industry are talking about the same things when we talk about espresso. Some of us are hung up on being techies, some like the culture/community, some just like the flavors. It's all a bit muddled.
-Jaime
PS to you know who: Master Barista??? It sounds a bit arrogant and I know you aren't... ¶ Jaime van Schyndel 5:01 PM
Comments:
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I very much agree with you.
I think it should be mentioned that espresso is a brew method. Not a type of bean.
Using this brew method, you can get flavors from beans from anywhere, roasted in any fashion. Not every flavor is a good flavor. There is more than one bean exibiting a good flavor.
For some of us, espresso is sort of a means of exploration. For others, it's just another way to drink coffee.
Just like there are some people who are fine buying their Yuban or Folger's, with no curiosity or will to learn more about what it is they're drinking, there are some people who are fine with having something better than average, but lack the curiosity or will to learn more, or reach beyond that.
On the other hand, there are people trying to pin down what exactly the perfect conditions are, and trying to create them.
And on a third hand, there are people trying to match these conditions to the coffee.. much like a great roaster will match the roast to the coffee. There is no "set in stone" set of variables in terms of temperature, time, pressure, and so on.
And on a fourth hand, there is the thought that there is no optimum flavor. Flavors will change depending on the temperature, time, etc.. but is one really better than the other, even from the same bean?
With so many flavor components, which ones should be considered "good" and which ones "bad"?
Do flavors cancel each other out like sound waves?
Do flavors combine to create phantom flavors .. like soundwaves? (think bass notes from a 3" speaker.. they're not real.. they're phantom)
I agree that we know very very little about what we're messing with.
I also agree that exploration is necessary.
I do not agree that it's for everyone. Some people just aren't cut out for it, and others just don't care.
But for those constantly persuing excellence in quality, there is usually associated with that person the trait of openness. The need to experience new and different things.
I definitely know I qualify for that one. I'm fairly certain you do as well. I think most quality-focused coffee people do, but obviously I can't be certain.
I can be certain that this trait is not strong, much less present, in everyone.
I think it should be mentioned that espresso is a brew method. Not a type of bean.
Using this brew method, you can get flavors from beans from anywhere, roasted in any fashion. Not every flavor is a good flavor. There is more than one bean exibiting a good flavor.
For some of us, espresso is sort of a means of exploration. For others, it's just another way to drink coffee.
Just like there are some people who are fine buying their Yuban or Folger's, with no curiosity or will to learn more about what it is they're drinking, there are some people who are fine with having something better than average, but lack the curiosity or will to learn more, or reach beyond that.
On the other hand, there are people trying to pin down what exactly the perfect conditions are, and trying to create them.
And on a third hand, there are people trying to match these conditions to the coffee.. much like a great roaster will match the roast to the coffee. There is no "set in stone" set of variables in terms of temperature, time, pressure, and so on.
And on a fourth hand, there is the thought that there is no optimum flavor. Flavors will change depending on the temperature, time, etc.. but is one really better than the other, even from the same bean?
With so many flavor components, which ones should be considered "good" and which ones "bad"?
Do flavors cancel each other out like sound waves?
Do flavors combine to create phantom flavors .. like soundwaves? (think bass notes from a 3" speaker.. they're not real.. they're phantom)
I agree that we know very very little about what we're messing with.
I also agree that exploration is necessary.
I do not agree that it's for everyone. Some people just aren't cut out for it, and others just don't care.
But for those constantly persuing excellence in quality, there is usually associated with that person the trait of openness. The need to experience new and different things.
I definitely know I qualify for that one. I'm fairly certain you do as well. I think most quality-focused coffee people do, but obviously I can't be certain.
I can be certain that this trait is not strong, much less present, in everyone.
Jaime,
It's as simple as this.
1) People hear a new exotic word, like "ristretto"
2) They believe they sound smarter, look sexier and command attention when using such a word
In other words, it really has nothing to do with the coffee and everything to do with the customers' ego.
It's kind of like when media started covering salsify because numerous celeb chefs were using it. Supposed foodies would talk about salsify in this, salsify in that whenever the subject of cooking came up. But you knew they didn't really get salsify, because if they did, they'd realize eating it generally makes the average diner more flatulent than had they eaten a gallon of B&M beans.
But it sounded cool at the time *toot*
You just have to accept people for who they are. It's human nature to be an idiot.
Sincerely,
Half of your regular readership.
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It's as simple as this.
1) People hear a new exotic word, like "ristretto"
2) They believe they sound smarter, look sexier and command attention when using such a word
In other words, it really has nothing to do with the coffee and everything to do with the customers' ego.
It's kind of like when media started covering salsify because numerous celeb chefs were using it. Supposed foodies would talk about salsify in this, salsify in that whenever the subject of cooking came up. But you knew they didn't really get salsify, because if they did, they'd realize eating it generally makes the average diner more flatulent than had they eaten a gallon of B&M beans.
But it sounded cool at the time *toot*
You just have to accept people for who they are. It's human nature to be an idiot.
Sincerely,
Half of your regular readership.
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